data-csrf="1711698957,83b9b294a6333c5b8c80921d625bd787" Die project | As Real As It Gets

Die project

Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
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This is a die project I just finished for my Browning B78 chambered in 6MM Jet...which is basically a .065 short 243 Ackley 40 degree case based on the rimmed 307 Winchester.

Hopefully, 'Stick will forgive my poor pic quality! :eek:

307W (lt)/ fireformed 6MM Jet (center)/243W Ackley 40 degree (rt)



Since this is a falling block action and doesn't have the primary camming extraction advantage that a bolt gun does, I wanted to size it pretty aggressively.

Started with a non-bushing Redding 243W Ackley full length die:



Shortened it .065, shortened the knurled upper area to make it better suited to an internal thread plug to hold the decapping pin and act as an upper travel limiter for the bushing, then polished the O.D. a bit. In the lathe, I indicated it on a .266 pin gauge that perfectly fit the original .266 diameter of the dies neck opening:



Then went in and opened the neck diameter with a .2815 carbide chucking reamer.



Bored the top to the level I wanted and threaded for the decapping plug assy. Not a great picture but you can see the bushing down in there:



For a decapping stem/bushing retainer plug, I scavenged an old set of Herters dies. Rather than a lock nut, a thread relief cut stops the plug about .006-.008 above the bushing. Grainy pic but you get the idea:



Finished product:



It sizes fired cases like "Johnny be jiggered!" (Col. Sam Clayton in 'The Searchers') and now there's the ability to juggle neck bushings to see what it likes.

All in all, a fun project!

 
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Big Stick

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Nov 18, 2007
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I actually had a B78 in 6mm Rem and another in 25-06.

Have been musing a 22" B78 1-7" contour dupe(round) in 6BR no-turn,for Giggles..............
 

Big Stick

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Nov 18, 2007
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I never have(or would) intentionally build a Turner,but have bought Used Rifles so afflicted.

No thang to box them up and either rechamber or open neck diameter............(grin)
 
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Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
445
61
The rifle it's for.



Next step is to see if my extractor mods work with a fired 243W case....it does with virgin cases. If so, it will be a bunch simpler to shorten a 243W die .065, push shoulders back on 243W cases, shorten the necks a bit and fire form.
 

Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
445
61
Does anyone do a 1913 rail for 'em yet?..................
Nothing commercially available. ;)

As you remember from your B78, the f-r ring heights are 'split' to allow for the height difference between action/barrel shank....short in the back/medium in the front, etc.

Years ago, when most people thought 'Picatinny' was a landmark in London, I machined up a rail for a late pal to mount a NiteForce 15X on his 22BR barrelled B78. It solved the scope mounting issue but it would toss a flyer once in a while. I parted the rail...seperating it into two sections...and the flyers went away.

Good shootin'. -Al
 

Oatmealsavage82

Well-known member
Nov 15, 2011
1,208
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Alberta Canada
Interesting post! I am embarking on my first sizer die build here soon for a 338 Nesbet, 338 lapua improved type deal. Guy gave me a 338 neck sizing die to try to team but that will be no bueno so I will just start with a fresh piece of 4140 HTSR and see how I make out. I don't have a headspace gauge for it so may take a bit of trial and error to figure out.
 
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Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
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Hmmmmm...intellesting that The Rail Chop sorted things out.

Any thunks as to why?.................
It was/is totally about harmonics with these falling blocks and two piece stocks. Having the scope base on the action (solid) and another on the barrel (vibrating in an egg-shaped pattern at the muzzle) guarantees non-repeatability except in the most serendipitous of circumstances.

Vintage BR and Schuetzen-style falling blocks...very accurate even by todays standards...always had the bases on the barrel for this very reason. My work with my late pals 22BR B78 proved this to be correct.

It was an interesting gun...Lee Shaver (B78/1885 flippin'
Master (y)) had rebarreled it with a factory heavy round target profile Lilja 3 groove and chambered it in a no-turn .254 neck 22BR Lapua chamber and did his trigger magic. So done, it would shoot honest .5 inch 5 shots groups at 100 yds. I tweaked it from there...bedded the forearm to the hanger and added a piece of hard durometer rubber as an insulator between forearm and hanger, dressed the back of the forearm to give .015 clearance between it and the front of the action, then did the base/ring modifications for the 30MM Niteforce scope. When it was all done, it shot honest-to-Gawd .250 inch 5 shot groups at 100 yds. with Nosler 40 and 50 gr. BTips. It accounted for a lot of fox and coyotes over the next few years. :)

My plan for my B78 when I rebarrel is to use the factory heavy round target profile barrel.... but with the shank length extended before the taper starts....then do a 1913 style base on the shank.

I've got a new 22BR 'dog gun in the works right now (Kelbly Atlas single shot) and when that's done and wrung out, the Browning is next. :)
 
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Big Stick

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Nov 18, 2007
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Paradise
A cantilever 1913 on the Old Gal. Nice.

I only have (1) 22BR (no-turn)and it's either straight 8" or 7" and small change,getting hard to remember it all from the hip.(grin) It shoots like a Dirty Bastard and rides a KRG Bravo with a fucking Jewell and I hate those tender pieces of shit. Fair amount of inclination and 5-20x MQ Lit Bitch.



I'm pretty sweet on my 22 PPC Fucking Improved(no-turn) and need a few more.



I REALLY like both the 22 PPC Fucking improved and 6 PPC Fucking Improved in Gas Guns and have a herd.............
 
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Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
445
61
The Shilen Competition 2-6 oz. trigger is my preferred trigger.

The early Jewell's were great...in the late '90's they had some issues with the side plates (mounting pin location, primarliy). On a couple of my BR rigs I got undrilled trigger hangars from Kelbly's and moved the pin location to compensate for the pin location on the side plates. By 2004 or so, Jewell had rectified the mounting pin location issue.

As an aside...the Jewell's are extremely sensitive to sear breakage if you pierce a primer.....it kicks the pin assy. rearward and cracks the sear connector.

FWIW...