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ok you handgun guru's!

darrenk75b

Well-known member
Aug 23, 2009
204
2
Norcal
$1k could do it. Prices can get out of hand in a hurry when talking 1911s.

The most expensive components will be the fitting of the barrel to the pistol - likely arounf $350 for a top-notch barrel install.

A couple things that I notice about your components - looks like your slide is from a 1911 Mil-Spec Springfield and someone has milled front serrations in it. The slide comes from Springfield with a GI dovetail rear sight and staked front sight. If you stay with that type of configuration, then you can save a lot of money over milling the slide to the more common Novak-type slide cuts. Personally, I'm a big fan of the "retro" sights produced by Glen Harrison

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=31893/Product/1911_AUTO_RETRO_REAR_SIGHT

This sight should fit your rear dovetail, but provides a nice sight picture given the serrations and taller-than-factory sight. You might then consider having a front sight custom fit to your slide for a given load. The smith can cut the front sight down until POA=POI.

Also, your tangs on the frame are the standard tangs that are not cut for a beavertail grip safety. If you want a beavertail installed, the smith will have to radius the tangs to fit the curve of the beavertail. If you want to save some money, you can instead go with the Colt-style ring hammer, and have a GI grip safety notched for the ring hammer. You won't then have to modify the tangs, so some money will be saved.

The Caspian frame should have a beveled magazine well already, so you are good to go there. Is the safety plunger tube already attached to the frame?

The Mil-Spec slide already has a lowered and flared ejection port - another plus.

Likely the best thing to do is to collect all the parts you need and ship them off to the smith for instalation. You'll likely save some coin over having the smith supply the parts.

As for recommendations, Springfield Armory has a very good reputation for custom pistol work - they'll work on just about any make/model of 1911. Prices are reasonable, as is turn-around time.

I've had work done my Glen Harrison, who dones fantastic work. I'd recommend him in a heartbeat, but his times and prices are likely a bit more.

Of, as far as finishes go - I'd consider having the pistol Melonited after it's assembled. You won't need to worry about corrosion that way, so long as you don't mind an all-black pistol.

For an idea of what I've just described (minus a minor difference with the hammer), see this link

http://www.grizzlycustom.com/custom_1911_pistols_retro.html
 

hangunnr

Administrator
Dec 12, 2007
1,912
77
Flatlandia
Depending on how much has to be done to get the slide to fit the frame you might be better off selling the slide then sending the frame back to Caspian and having them match a slide to your frame with the sight cuts / profile you want.

Once you start with a well fit frame and slide putting the rest together isn't all that hard. The grip safety can be done at home with a very simple fixture available from Brownells. With the super quality internals available today you can virtually drop in a match quality trigger job without much fuss. Fitting a barrel can be done at home too if you're willing to buy a couple speciality tools.

hangunnr
 

jds44

Moderator
Nov 18, 2007
1,665
0
East of pullit, West of Painless
Here's the list I sent to my smith recently to re-work a Colt I had in the safe. Some things won't apply to your build and you'll need to add some things, like fit the slide to frame, etc. I'm too fucking lazy to type out a new list for exactly what I'd do with your gun, but you get the idea.

There's a lot of detail that goes into doing a 1911 right. No way in hell I'd do it myself, if I expected it to work. Send it to somebody who has a clue.

• Re-fit beavertail
o Has Wilson beavertail installed currently, but not properly blended
o Blend frame with top of beavertail in disengaged position
o Blend frame with sides of beavertail in engaged position
o Re-contour top/back of beavertail for slightly smaller profile

• Fit thumb safety
o I dropped in Colt factory safety with no fitting

• Fit new fire-control group
o Ed Brown short trigger
o Blue Force hammer/sear/disconnector and strut
o Fit for 4 pound pull with over-travel and take-up set to minimum (but enough play for 100% reliability)

• Fit barrel and bushing
o Storm Lake machine barrel
o Wilson bushing
o Throat for 100% reliability, including hollowpoints
o Fit bushing finger tight

• Fit slide stop
o Ed Brown Harcore
o Ensure locks back on empty mag
o Dimple so doesn’t lock back when shouldn’t

• Fit magazine release
o Wilson Tactical

• Install new pins
o EGW pin set

• Flare ejection port (probably low enough already)
• Stake ejector (if not already done)
• Stake plunger tube (if not already done)
• High cut front strap
• Fix checkering ding (if even possible)

• Go through inside of gun carefully to ensure reliability/long life
o Check extractor, polish/fit/bevel/etc anything that needs it so the gun works and doesn’t beat itself to death, etc.

• Bevel/open magazine well as much as possible
• Bevel/break all sharp edges on outside of gun

• Fit sights
o Heine rear
o .110’’ dovetail serrated post front with roll pin
 

Part list
• SLM barrel - have
• Wilson Match bushing - have
• Ed Brown short trigger - have
• Wilson tactical mag release - have
o Wilson factory plus mag catch lock and spring - have
• EGW hard pin set - have
• Wilson factory plus slotted grip screws - have
• Ed Brown Hardcore slide stop - have
• Blue Force Gear/Vickers commander hammer/sear/disconnector - have
• Blue Force Gear/Vickers hammer strut - have
• Colt steel arched mainspring housing – need
• 19 pound Wolfe mainspring - need
• 17 pound Wolfe recoil spring / extra power firing pin spring – have
• Heine rear – Have
• .110 dovetail front – need
 

J-Hon

Administrator
Dec 11, 2007
582
4
Northern Ky
Remembered a guy in VA actually:

http://www.samscustomgunworksusa.com/

I haven't used him, but have contemplated sending him a Glock quite a bit. I always see pictures of his work in the most random places. Always something kinda different (Like a CZ, or a Glock, or a Sig 210) done up real nice.

I was impressed with his work, but at the least he might rate giving a call to see what you think.
 

16Bore

Well-known member
Feb 11, 2010
3,272
1
Virgina
There's a dude in Ashland...Ashland Firearms Service? Not far from Green Top. He does 1911 work. I've seen some of his work, pretty decent but did fuck up a trigger job on my STI (think it was his apprentice). Kid told me that hammer follow happens. Uh, ok.... I told him I could do it better myself, and did. Looks like you've already got some old school IPSC guns.

Not to be a dick, but I'd trip that Heinz 57 shit and buy an STI. By the time you finish paying for the work, you'll be way dollars ahead......
 

16Bore

Well-known member
Feb 11, 2010
3,272
1
Virgina
You can always bolt it together yourself. If you have a bit of patience and can handle tools, they ain't rocket science. If you want it done by a smith, it'll be bucks. Maybe you and the old man can figure it out together. Figuring shit out makes for fun....
 

16Bore

Well-known member
Feb 11, 2010
3,272
1
Virgina
Well, that changes everything then, sorry to hear that. He'd probably appreciate your efforts. That gun just became an heirloom.....
 

The

Well-known member
Jul 24, 2009
437
1
Its a Secret
I'm not a 1911 guy and have never dealt with them but a lot of interweb buzz about Springfield Armory's custom shop. When I called with questions they answered or called back. I was going to use them, but 1911s just dont make sense to me.