If it's the 1375 Model, I do have some first hand knowledge of them. This Summer, I did a pretty extensive rework of one for a friend.
The receivers are very straight, the bolts generally have about .002 clearance, and in general the machine work is very nice. The 3 lug bolt situation is pretty unique as is the firing pin assy. They chose an extremely heavy spring for the f-pin and that causes some excessively hard bolt lift. On the one I did pictured here, I reworked the spring pressure down to 21 lbs, fitted a new cocking piece that I'd modified and recut the cocking cam helix on the bolt body. It shoots really, really well now and the bolt lift is much better. The pin travel is stopped by the cocking piece contacting the front of the shroud so that entire area is critical. The early ones had a trigger hanger but the later ones went back to cross pins with cuts semi dovetailed in the receiver so the trigger can go in or out like a hinge...pretty clever.
Parts are still available if you need any. Be happy to help with the project if needed.
Here's a few pics of the one I tweaked. After this was done, the owner ended up beating me at 100 yds. at the next NBRSA tournament we shot in a couple weeks later! I turned the tables and beat him at 200 and won the 100-200 Grand though...revenge!
Good shootin'
-Al
The receivers are very straight, the bolts generally have about .002 clearance, and in general the machine work is very nice. The 3 lug bolt situation is pretty unique as is the firing pin assy. They chose an extremely heavy spring for the f-pin and that causes some excessively hard bolt lift. On the one I did pictured here, I reworked the spring pressure down to 21 lbs, fitted a new cocking piece that I'd modified and recut the cocking cam helix on the bolt body. It shoots really, really well now and the bolt lift is much better. The pin travel is stopped by the cocking piece contacting the front of the shroud so that entire area is critical. The early ones had a trigger hanger but the later ones went back to cross pins with cuts semi dovetailed in the receiver so the trigger can go in or out like a hinge...pretty clever.
Parts are still available if you need any. Be happy to help with the project if needed.
Here's a few pics of the one I tweaked. After this was done, the owner ended up beating me at 100 yds. at the next NBRSA tournament we shot in a couple weeks later! I turned the tables and beat him at 200 and won the 100-200 Grand though...revenge!
Good shootin'
-Al
The Wichita World ain't mine. Do this ring any bells?
Contemplating a few things,all for Giggles. Was curious in regards to relative robustitude,which I assume to be a given and nextly,concentricity.
I appreciate your hands on info.............
Contemplating a few things,all for Giggles. Was curious in regards to relative robustitude,which I assume to be a given and nextly,concentricity.
I appreciate your hands on info.............
A sleeved Wichita....holy heavyiness, Batman!
The unsleeved versions are a smidge over 40 oz. (40.3 on my scale). I would imagine that ones a glue in. That sleeve is likely a Davidson and the stock appears to be an early McMillan or Lee Six. Bolt faces offerred were .378, .445 and .473. Given that rigs age, a reglue would be a must. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to remove the sleeve and either reglue the sleeve or rehab the receiver if it wasn't ground on too much in prep for sleeving.
Could be an interesting project. -Al
The unsleeved versions are a smidge over 40 oz. (40.3 on my scale). I would imagine that ones a glue in. That sleeve is likely a Davidson and the stock appears to be an early McMillan or Lee Six. Bolt faces offerred were .378, .445 and .473. Given that rigs age, a reglue would be a must. If it were mine, I'd be tempted to remove the sleeve and either reglue the sleeve or rehab the receiver if it wasn't ground on too much in prep for sleeving.
Could be an interesting project. -Al