I get these questions often,so let's nip a bunch in one fell swoop. The questions being geared towards F/F(feed/function) ala various Remmie flavorings. Shit is easy to diagnose,if you know what you are looking for and where to find it.

1) This pertains to any/all chamberings,whether .378,.473 or .532 or deviations of. If shit is jumping the rails,you likely have her assembled incorrectly(that easily making up 95%+ of all "issues").

Here is a .378 short wearing an as issued magbox(which is one of at least three variants),with all seated correctly. It is an ADL box,less the ADL box retainer screw in place.



If shit is still jumping the rails,with correct assembly being determined(including the follower,follower spring and their geometry),then things are still an easy fix.

2) The fix being the extreme latitude afforded the magbox's lips ability to be manipulated,in relationship to the receiver's rails. Here you can see the daylight alongside the scalloped section of the magbox and all of that daylight is latitude.



To preclude something jumping the rail(s),simply massage the forward 1/3 or so of the magbox's lips outward,so that more of the catridge's surface area is trapped beneath the rail. While I'm sure a fucking idiot could fuck that up,it assuredly isn't Rocket Fucking Science. Tweak lightly and ascertain function until you are there.

Again,only a fucking idiot would be making F/F assertations with live fucking ammo.

3) Here's a quick cursory peek,regarding a visual assembly verification,less disassembly. One can immediately note that the portside of the mag,is nestled fully into the cutout within the receiver that accepts same.



Obviously,on a fully assembled rifle you pull the bolt and depress the follower to yield the peek.

4) Another cursory peek,though purposely shot at 180 to beat shit into heads. On all Remmie magboxes excepting the .378 variants,one can easily pull the bolt and depress the follower,to see correct box assembly. The rear of the magwell will be mated or boasting a CH lineal seam and it's surface will be flush from transition from starboard to port.



This was purposely poked together wrong,which will of course induce F/F woe.

5) Another look,from a different angle,of that same assembly attempt.



Shit is just as glaring,loook from the top down,while wearing it's stock. LOTSA guys fuck this up.

6) This is a portside receiver peek of that incorrect assembly. Which is reiteration to peek at both angles,when making a determination.



7) This why you can't see .378 woes,due to the spacer in the ass that robs a view at the seam. You can still have the magbox installed askew and disassembly is the best way to resolve "weirdness" there.



The red 3M tape also hints of how you reasemble less a woe,in that making the seam initially is a good start and secondly it precludes an ADL's follower spring from being trapped between magbox and stock belly,which of course will cause woes as well.

The astute savvy that on a BDL,you can pop the bottom,pull the follower and get a very good look at shit without popping the stock,which is something that you cain't do in ADL fashion. Though I prefer ADL.

Lastly,fully seating the follower spring onto the follower bears much fruit(hint). I see that one fucked up often too. Also the attitude in which the follower rides the spring,is another that folks like to fuck up. I'd take some pics,but am enjoying a snow squall which killed my pastel ambient light.

I ALWAYS put an extry bend in the 4-corners of the magwell,so that a little tapping is requisite to fully seat the magbox. They cannot shoot loose,though I've been knowed to run a bead of RVT silicone around the juncture,just for the fuck of it.

Putting shit together correctly,has been knowed to enhance one's "luck"......................(grin)

Not all followers is equal and I don't much care for stamped .378's.



How to nip a fuckup squarely in the buds,as per ADL assembly.



Note that she's a whack shy of being drove home,but once she's there,it's until I wish it otherwise. The shiny corners are left slightly exposed,to pinpoint the 4-corner tweak approach to longterm happiness.

Mmmmmmm...now I wonder if it'll return to zero after reassembly.............(grin)

With luck,we'll get to touch upon the 82 Trick Move train of thought and mebbe someone with a fucking Winchester will feel like flapping their gums.....................(grin)

I take it you can't go fishing..............
outside that is........

I very much enjoy the Peter Paul Mouser Motherfuckers,because if you handed a balloon to 10 of them,9 would be stumped on how to tie a knot in the end of the fucking thing,thinkin' they'd gotten another "bad one".

Common fucking sense is a revelation to many................(grin)

Stick,
The stamped is all that is available new from Remington, correct?

I'd say if you order from Remmie,you will reliably receive a stamping.

Little things start to add up in the big picture,when one starts musing high volume round counts of the utility sort,in less than spectacular weather and when the last "case" the system has seen is the cardboard one she shipped in.

Meat and Taters Rifles sing no matter the circumstance..............

I have a 223 AI on a Stiller action that I am having problems with. Thanks for the picture post.

What's it doing to you?.................

Bullet tip jams into the action or barrel shank when closing the bolt. 80 sierra loaded to 2.50. My 700 AI does fine. Both have Gunrunner followers and the mag box spacer has been modified the same on both. Both were built by same smith, same reamer, same dies.

A nosedown attitude is easily arranged,via the magbox's lips being too tight up front(forward 1/3 again). Open her up,the attitude will change and shit will start jumping in the hole.

A follower spring can induce that woe too,typically when the follower isn't seated fully upon it(meaning shy of being buried forward in the follower's nose).

No different than timing a DBM system.....................

Thanks. My smith is new to the game as far as rifles go. Great machinist though.

Both guns have been excellent so far except for the one feeding issue. Both running Pac-Nor polygonal barrels, 7 twist.

Ascertain correct assembly mating first and then start scratching shit off the list from there.....................

Good post...

Great post....great pics....and I'm glad to see I'm not the only one who tapes up ADL boxes prior to slamming them in a stock.

It was all written by sister I bet, or else this is all she has left for dad to do, he taught her too well and now she is outdoing him.

But I also agree it is a great post.

Even Lee24 could learn something here.

I had a reply for you.....but I watched your little signature video for a few minutes and forgot what I was going to say....

This Post is prolly a Classic...beings it covers the shit that DO matter and none of which that don't.................

I know you post a lot of stuff....but I'll single this one out and say that it was a very good post, you're right. It should be sticky'd in the custom rifle section. IMHO.

Feeding issues seem to be THE #1 problem that guys run in to and often times they just have no idea where to start....this post squarely lays out all the pieces on the board, and shows where to place them. Again, great post!!

Remington's "bane" is their inherent latitude.

Dumbfuckers ain't no good at making choices.....................(grin)

+1 a slight squeeze on my MB cured much.........as a little stretch on another did same.................

Can we get a sticky on this post? Good to have on the top. Thanks, Stick.

Might score a "Drunky" and a few more notions...............

sticky???? what you all got bad memory?

My troubles are,I don't forget nuttin'.............

nutted up........

I appreciate the time and effort you put into the post, Stick. Much obliged.

Ditto.

Good post, I agree. Glad to see I'm not the only one who tweaks corners for tight seating.

Once again, thanks for the clear photo's
pavementends

Thanks for taking the time Stick, good post.

Got a good method of removing the spacer on a 223 mag?

Dremel cut off tool...

Was figuring the shim thing was gonna come up and this is a good place for it. Everyone should oughtta upload their pics of how they broached the subject,as a courtesy to them mulling same.

It'd be tough to argue against the practice of spot welding the rear of the magwell(outside surface,nearest trigger),as a means of negating one facet of incorrect assembly. Pouring the shim ala SteelBed,do accomplish same.

Lotsa ways to skin that cat...............

This was easy.



Cut out the spacer with a dremel and hacksaw a piece of .25" aluminum stock from the hardware store ($12). Some have drilled and tapped the aluminum for screws but I'm not that sophisticated. I drilled a few half-depth holes in the back of the aluminum, cut a few purchase slits in the rear corners of the mag box, and JB'd it all in place. A C-clamp held everything while it all set up. It ain't coming apart anytime soon and gives an inside dimension a bit over 2.5".

Perfect..............

I have done it several different ways and I like this one best......Blake

Well guys as my first post here I will try and keep my "dumbfucktitude" to a minimum.

So my wife bought a new model 7 pretator in .243 for herself - you know the whole modest length, modest profile thing - all on her own. We took it out to shoot and it is shooting real well. The feeding however - sucked. The rounds are nosing waaay up as they come out of the mag box and won't exit until the very last second.

Based on what I have read here so far...I should tighten up the front of the mag box until they nose down into the chamber. Am I thinking the right way??

Thanks for any help.

SC

Take the stock off, look at the back of the mag box. Where the two sides meet needs to even from top to bottom. If that is good, open up the first 1/3 of the box, and that will give your rounds a little more time in the box. By no means am I an expert on this but Stick told me this a week or two ago and it worked like magic..........Blake

To answer your question no do not tighten up the front, spread them a little further apart......

Thought I should update y'all. I opened the front of the mag box. It feeds more nose down and smoother. Thanks all.

I was surprised by how soft the metal of the mag box is. It is a little "wavy" now but as soft as it is I bet it will slowly smooth out. Simple and effective...perfect.

SC

The magbox is easily coaxed and despite that,they stay shaped as per whim.

I typically move lips via the rails of a .063" 3/8" chain bar................

I ran across a machined follower for my .223 AI, and it works LOADS better than the stamped versions I've tried.

Anyone have a source for more?



....Wait a minute.....I mean they SUCK!....Worst POS I've ever seen....

Anyone have a source for more?

Where'd all Stick's pictures go? He forget to pay the Photobucket bill?

don't reckin photobucket ban him do you?

I wouldn't be surprised ... I can say that much... (grin)

That thought did cross my mind.

Gave 'em another 25 clams,to feed the machine,all is well.................

Pictures are back and all is now right with the world.

Stick.
Thanks for takeing the time to type this up. The .223 that I've been cussing for the last year feeds like a champ now.

Having all ducks in a row,is never a concession................

Well since I have been buying a few more rems lately...no thanks to you guys..

I have one that is doing something different and I don't want to dick it up. It FF's fine when loaded and shot. However, when I load it and close the bolt over the top (empty chamber for hunting) the rear of the round stays too low when I cycle it and try to chamber the round.(not picking it up) I have taped the sides and bottom of the box to ensure proper assembly and have ensured same. (ADL) So, do I open the rear of the box just a smidge....??? Or..??

It almost seems like the bolt dragging over the top of the round makes it drop and stay down (make sense?)

StoneCold

Open the box lips,to make shit ride higher. Pinch box lips to realize the opposite.

Easyola.............

i have 223AI M7 that has been a bit of a balky feeder since inception.
I opened the box lips a bit via vice grips and threw in a machined follower from Brownell's while I was at it.
Need to get some trigger time on it but it is feeding dummy rounds fine now. Can't see how adding primers/powder will change things.

I'm a great fan of dummy rounds,both for ascertaining feed/function and as aids to COAL settings................

Waiting on one of those followers, and Dan is as well. Ordered a couple, and received long action followers instead.

The part numbers on the packaging were correct, but it's tough to get a long action follower in a 223 mag box.

That was a pretty neat trick, wasn't it?

I'm guessing you dropped the return stuff in the mail? Thanks.

Yeah... hopefully it's waiting for you when you get back.

Your car is in the garage, and I'm kind of jealous of the Autostart.

I didn't see anything glaringly wrong with your house, but didn't look real close.

I did have to take a dremnel to narrow the spring a CH.

Milled followers are tough to whoop,no matter the boltface..............

I'm finally getting around to diagnose some magbox woes with my 243, and have a question regarding your pics. The magbox should fit tight into the milled area of the receiver, correct? If so, I need a different box, mines as loose as a $2 whore waiting at the end of a southbound flight...

Granted, its sitting in a Stiller rather then a Rem.

Do the 4-corner tweak. Simply spread the outermost four corners(which have zero affect on feed/function) and massage them until they snug into the receiver inlet.

No thang...............

I'll be damned if the magbox tweak didn't fix the 223ai feeding woes I was having. A pair of needlenose pliers, a couple of grunts, and the magbox now affords more space for the 223ai rounds to sit.

I was having a hell of a time with rounds nosing into the barrel shank and/or popping out of the mag box and was getting pissed.

Thanks for the post.

Fixin' shit,has been knowed to work..................(grin)

Is there any performance difference in milled followers? Are the "old style" as good or better than the new style OEM milled followers that have the extra ridge/lip running port side that makes the follower sit lower?

Well, the old style milled followers were half the price, so I bought some of those.....

Where did you find them?

I'm assuming these are the stamped ones, no?

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=698795

Stamped............