I've done it too,just not as many times with the same glass,upon the same rifle.

Fucking off now......................(grin)

You've 8400 LW's?..................

yes, maybe I didn't explain this correctly. I have three different rifles that this scope has been on. My 700 TI in the above Talley LWT's, my 700ML in the above Talley LWT's and finally on my Kimber Montana in Talley LWT's (for the Kimber). On both the 700TI and 700ML, I could see the left horizontal crosswire "bending" when I tightened down the rings. When I mounted it on the Kimber last night I tightened down the rings and looked through it, that is when I noticed it was broken. I did forget to mention that it took about a 4 foot drop off of my bench onto the concrete floor. As a side note, the butler creek caps were no worse for wear. I didn't think the fall would have snapped the reticle, but I guess it could have.......Blake

You using any sort of torque driver to tighten the rings?

I have a torque wrench but never use it. My method is to start at the front ring alternate left side to right side then hit the rear ring alternating as well. I get them snug then check for reticle straightness then drive them home......Blake

I've only ever seen that goofiness on a Nikon Buckmaster I had for a short while (very short), and I think part of that was me tightening the piss out of it.

I bought one of those cheap torque drivers that's preset at 20 or 25 inch lbs and have never had a screw loosen up or a scope slip.

I'm thinking that when Blake 'drives them home' he doesn't stop torquing until either the wrench breaks or the screw head snaps off ...

I did break a snap on T-handle torque drive not to long ago mounting a scope, but that was on the base screws. I am generally easier on the ring screws.......Blake

The little torque drivers keep me from doing that. Otherwise I have a tendency to turn it til something snaps.

The principles for bedding the bases are simliar to bedding your stock. You don't want the bedding sticking to your receiver, rather the bases when it's complete.

With Talley lightweights I would simply lay the bases on the receiver dry and see if I can see any gaps underneath. I also like to have a 1" precision ground rod for alignment checking between the rings.

Look for the obvious gaps between the base and receiver and plan your amount of bedding accordingly.

I like to lay on a generous amount and just place the bases gently on the receiver, so it doesn't squirt out of the bearing surfaces. Next, make sure the screws are full of paste wax and insert those in the holes, never snugging them up. Lay your scope on top of the rings and let the weight of the scope settle the home position that it'll live in when you're done.
You can remove the scope after some curing has taken place, providing you do it carefully.

Most of the time, I dont' bother with Devcon, Accuraglass, etc.........5 minute epoxy will do the job quite well and it's not an all day deal. You can also take acrylic paint and mix that with the epoxy and get it to match out perfectly with your blueing or in some cases.....Cerakote.