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Stock Shopping

Dan In Alaska

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2007
3,213
28
Anchorage
The 22 Creed arrived today. There's a fair amount of shank on this barrel, and I forgot to specify to the 'smith to start chopping at that end. Oops. I had to do a little sanding in the barrel channel to get her to fit, but it looks good. I'll bed it later, maybe tonight.







She weighs 6lbs and 12oz, naked. I have a set of Talley LWs and a Leupold 3.5-10x waiting in the wings. That'll do, for now.


And, yes, the muzzle IS threaded. I really like how it turned out.








I took some COAL measurements, with a few of the bullets I have on hand...
75gr A-Max, 2.660"
77gr TMK, 2.570"
80.5gr Berger Full Bore, 2.620"
88gr ELDM, 2.690"

I hope I can get the 88s to shoot well, but if not, I have other options. I have plenty of 75s, already, but I also plan to snag some 80gr ELDs, when I find them.
 
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Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
353
21
Well done, Dan.

With a Sporter taper barrel, I like to keep as much of the shank length as possible....even keeping the shank O.D. @ 1.250 rather than the 'normal' 1.200 shank diameter most Sporter profiles have. The longer shank length and the 1.250 diameter make the barrel act 'stiffer' than a normal Sporter contour.

Good shootin'. :) -Al
 

Dan In Alaska

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2007
3,213
28
Anchorage
Thanks for the info, Al! The rifle isn't overly heavy, so other than having to sand the barrel channel, I guess I can't really complain about "too much shank."

I still need to bed this thing. Do you recommend bedding under the shank, or just bed the action and float the rest? I've heard/read recommendations to do it both ways.
 

tnv

Well-known member
Dec 25, 2007
682
6
TN
I like to just bed the action. It simplifies things should you swap barrels down the road.
 

Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
353
21
Dan, on repeater 700's I use a two point bedding approach.
-No bedding forward of the recoil lug, minimum .030 clearance between the shank and stock
-Minimum .030 clearance around the sides, bottom and front of the lug. Only the back of the lug makes any contact (very important).
-Bedding under the front receiver ring and it stops at the back of the receiver ring.
-Bedding under the rear tang, making sure there is no rear 'ledge' of bedding behind the tang...bedding to stock transition is smooth (very important).
-No contact along the sides of the action and the stock, minimum .020 clearance.
-Shorten top of pillars to allow for .050 minimum bedding material on top of pillar. No hard contact between pillar and receiver.
-Enlarge pillar holes to 5/16" and center the guide pins using these flanged 5/16 o.d./1/4" I.D. sleeves. NO contact between actions screws and pillars!


 

Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
353
21
Dan, I can send you some of the flanged Delrin sleeves if you want to try them. I glue them into the pillars with Super Glue and just drill them out later. Using them gives you a perfectly centered action screw with .030-ish clearance all the way around the screw. For a guide pin, a long 1/4-28 cap screw with a nice taper on the non threaded lower part to help it enter the sleeve works great. -Al
 

Dan In Alaska

Well-known member
Nov 30, 2007
3,213
28
Anchorage
I appreciate the offer, Al. I am no where near that level of awesome, though. I got the rifle bedded, but it's been a while since I did the last one. I keep thinking I'll get better at it, but I just don't do it often enough to get proficient. I feel like I have two left feet, all thumbs, and one wandering eye. :D

I'll shoot it, first, and see if I can live with it. If not, I'll summon some more patience and give it another go.

Thanks, again!
 
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Al Nyhus

Well-known member
Dec 30, 2008
353
21
Dan, no "awesome" here for sure, though I do appreciate the nod. Just years of workin' with stuff, is all.

Yesterday, I was doing race car wiring. Now, this will make you think a bit! ;) -Al